swells a-comin’! ow! owowow!

CHYES I love me ze bodysurfing!

Today was the last day of junior guards at carlsbad so after the session-al Shaving Cream Fight it was basically FREE SWIM ALL DAY!

I got out there in the morning when the tide was still coming in a bit to a low-med tide at Ponto, and OH MY once I found “the spot” on the sand bar…. MMMMM MMMM YEAAAA it was spinner and occasional barrel butter!

Ah, I’d almost forgot what waves looked like! Though it was still only 1-2 out there, it was evident something is on its way! Surfline says it’ll be building all weekend! 2-4 on Saturday (for my practice heat at the pier) and then even bigger on Sunday for semi-finals and finals!

I actually am a little nervous… isn’t O-side pier a little gnarly? With swell? And my heat is a low tide I thiiinkk…. yikes! Hello pitching fat lips! Put my Balzac to the test I shappoose.

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Filed under Summer 2010

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